Henry Chappell
“Lubbock County grows some of the finest wine grapes in Texas,” said wine and food columnist Sarah Jane English, author of The Wines of Texas. “The area is basically disease free, with a nice climate – especially the cool evenings which grapes like.” “From a practical standpoint, wine tasting isn’t so much about the subtleties and complexities as it is about whether or not you’d want to drink a bottle of the wine you’ve just tasted.” “One visitor, a lady who lived in France for fifteen years, told me that of the wineries she’d visited in California and Texas, Pheasant Ridge most reminded her of the small French wineries,” Bill said. Indeed, the tasting area takes up one end of the barrel room. I could smell the oak. “In West Texas, the red grapes seem to do better. I suspect it’s because our soil and climate are very similar to those of France’s Bordeaux area, which is primarily a red region as well.” |
A Taste of the High Plains: Lubbock-Area WineriesTen forty-five seemed early for wine, in this case a splash of 2002 Llano Estacado Signature Red Meritage. But in another fifteen minutes I could claim to be on the front-end of an early lunch. And I was only tasting. “This wine holds a hint of black peppercorn,” said Greg Bruni, Llano Estacado’s winemaker. “It goes great with a nice steak.” I took a sip. A hint of black peppercorn, maybe; great with a steak, certainly. Bruni smiled and pointed to the spit bucket. “You have a long day ahead.” The two of us cleansed our palates with water and moved on to a 2003 Signature Rhone, a dry, light red. I took a sip and glanced at the bucket. Long day ahead. I’d never make a wine judge. Next came a taste of Llano Estacado 2003 Shiraz. I swished the smooth, fruity red around in my mouth, recalling tasting basics - sweetness is perceived on the tip of the tongue; acidy or crispness on the sides; tannin near the back of the tongue. I swished, nodded, eyed the spit bucket, and tried to concentrate. Tip of the tongue, sides, back of tongue…on to throat and empty stomach. I nodded expertly and scribbled a few notes. I’d redeem myself on the next selection Mention the shortgrass prairie, and the uninitiated seem to think only of cattle, vast crop fields, and center-pivot irrigators. But the High Plains hold surprises. The sere, monotonous Caprock abruptly falls away to hoodoo-haunted canyons; on closer inspection those roan dots near the horizon turn out to be pronghorns, not cattle; and the same calcareous soil that grows cotton and milo also grows Vitis Vinefera – European wine grapes. “Lubbock County grows some of the finest wine grapes in Texas,” said wine and food columnist Sarah Jane English, author of The Wines of Texas. “The area is basically disease free, with a nice climate – especially the cool evenings which grapes like.” Modern High Plains viticulture began in the early 1970s, when two Texas Tech University professors, horticulturist Robert Reed and chemist Clint (Doc) McPherson, planted 100 varieties of experimental vines on 10 acres a few miles south of Lubbock. The results convinced the two pioneer vintners that their region could produce fine wine. In 1976, with the support of investors, they opened Llano Estacado Winery near their experimental site. In the beginning, a lack of vineyards hampered production, but Llano Estacado’s early success and the emergence of other wineries encouraged potential growers. By 1980, the winery was producing about 6000 cases (72,000 bottles) per year. In the early 1980s, production accelerated with the addition of state-of –the- art tanks, crushers and other equipment. In 1986, Llano Estacado shook the American wine scene when it’s 1985 Chardonnay won a Double Gold award at the prestigious San Francisco Fair Wine Competition. The winery took another major stride in 1993 when president Walter Haimann lured Greg Bruni away from his native California, where his grandfather and cousins had founded San Martin Winery in 1928. Greg began working in the San Martin cellar at the age of 12. After graduation from the Enology and Viticulture program at the University of California at Davis, he built a distinguished reputation working for California wineries. “I come from a pioneering winemaking family,” say Greg. I couldn’t pass up the opportunity to be a part of a new industry in Texas.” These days, Llano Estacado ships about 115,000 cases of wine per year. Its portfolio includes Cabernets, Chardonnay, Zinfandel, Merlot, Chenin Blanc, and dessert wines such as Port and Muscat Canelli. Its 2002 Cellar Select Reserve Cabernet Sauvignon Newsome Vineyard won the gold in the 2005 Texas Best Wine Competition. Llano Estacado Winery welcomes visitors for complimentary wine tasting and a tour of the 30,000 square foot production facility. A gift shop offers tee-shirts, caps, and wine - and gourmet-related items. Greg stresses that beginners should relax and simply enjoy tasting the different wines. He says, “From a practical standpoint, wine tasting isn’t so much about the subtleties and complexities as it is about whether or not you’d want to drink a bottle of the wine you’ve just tasted.” Later that day, I sat in the casual, cozy tasting room at Pheasant Ridge Winery while general manager Bill Gipson Jr. explained his philosophy. Bulletin boards full of photos and medals covered the walls. A pair of friendly cats (Paws and Corky) vied for my attention, swatting at my pen as I made notes. The 10,000 square-foot winery sits amid 150 acres, 60 acres of which are planted with grapevines. Though it’s the smallest of the major Lubbock wineries - shipping about 10,000 cases per year – Pheasant Ridge stresses personal attention to detail and tradition. The vineyard, about 15 miles north of Lubbock, was planted in 1979. “Ours is the only family-owned winery in the Lubbock area,” said Bill, whose father, winemaker Bill Gipson Sr., is one of the pioneers of the Texas wine industry. “And all of our grapes are grown right here on the estate.” (The area’s other major wineries, Llano Estacado and Cap Rock, use grapes bought from independent growers.) While most wineries use mechanically harvested grapes, Pheasant Ridge still relies on hand harvesting, which minimizes damage and makes for easier selection of superior fruit. “Growing our own grapes allows us to control our own destiny,” Bill added. “We’re not dependent on other growers.” With its vineyards, modest facility, adjacent playa, gravel road, and the surrounding crop fields stretching to the horizons, the winery looks and feels like part of the plains. “One visitor, a lady who lived in France for fifteen years, told me that of the wineries she’d visited in California and Texas, Pheasant Ridge most reminded her of the small French wineries,” Bill said. Indeed, the tasting area takes up one end of the barrel room. I could smell the oak. All Pheasant Ridge red wines are aged in oak barrels, and none of its Cabernets are released before their third birthday. The extra aging adds complexity and softens red wine by reducing the astringent effect of naturally occurring tannin. My favorite, the 2000 Reserve Cabernet Sauvignon, is firm, full-bodied, and fruity, with hints of blackberry and plum, and a soft but satisfying finish. I’m not alone in my assessment. In 2004, the Pheasant Ridge 20th Anniversary Reserve Cabernet Sauvignon was named “Champion” at the first annual Houston Livestock Show and Rodeo International Wine Competition. Although the winery is best known for reds, I found its Chardonnay interesting: dry, yet creamy with an unusually prominent taste of butter or vanilla. On weekends, Pheasant Ridge offers complimentary wine tastings and a free tour of the vineyards and production facility. In addition to recently released wines, tasting room visitors can purchase older reserve red wines unavailable elsewhere. Since 1992, the 23,000 square-foot, Mission-style Cap Rock Winery, five miles south of Lubbock, has added to the High Plains wine industry’s burgeoning reputation. Cap Rock winemaker Kim McPherson (yes, the son of the legendary Doc McPherson) has crafted numerous award-winners including his 2001 Cabernet Sauvignon which won gold in the 2003 Southwest Wine Competition. Cap Rock offers several varietal wines such as Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot, and Chardonnay; a series of reserve wines, most notably Toscano Rosso and Orange Muscat, and three proprietary blends - Texas White, Texas Red, and Texas Blush. Cap Rock president Don Roark believes reds are the winery’s real strength. “In West Texas, the red grapes seem to do better. I suspect it’s because our soil and climate are very similar to those of France’s Bordeaux area, which is primarily a red region as well.” Both he and McPherson are especially partial to their Palo Duro Red, a blend of Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot and Sangiovese grapes. I most enjoyed the Texas Red, a firm, spicy blend I can imagine accompanying my next plate of beef fajitas, and the Texas White, a dry, fruity blend suggestive of green apples and peaches. Cap Rock’s high-ceilinged, southwestern-style visitor center welcomes guests for tours and tasting. The barrel room, tasting room, and patio can be rented for wedding parties and other gatherings. Yes, the Europeans have a head start of millennium or so, and the Californians have a 30-year jump, but the Texans are coming up fast. Greg Bruni offers this prediction: “The best wines in Texas have not yet been made.” essentials HIGH PLAINS WINERIES Llano Estacado Wineryis south of Lubbock. From Loop 289, go south on US 87 for 5 miles, exit on FM 1585, and go 3.2 miles east. The winery is on the right. Tours and tastings available are Mon-Sat 10-5, Sun. 12-5. Call 806/ Pheasant Ridge Winery is north of Lubbock, near New Deal. From Lubbock, go north on I-27, take Exit 14, and go east 2 miles on FM 1729 (through New Deal), and then go south 1 mile on CR 2600. Tours and tasting available Sat-Sat 12-6, Sun 1-5, and by appt. Call 806/ Cap Rock Wineryis south of Lubbock. From Loop 289, go south on US 87 about 10 miles, turn east on Woodrow Rd., and go ½ mile; the winery is on the right. Tours and tastings available Mon-Sat 10-5, Sun 12-5. Call 806/ Nearby Attractions La Diosa Cellars at 901 17th Street in the Lubbock Depot District, is a small winery, bistro, and art shop featuring wine bar, coffee bar, and live music. Open Tue-Fri 11 a.m.– midnight, Sat noon-1 a.m. Call 806/ For general information about Lubbock, write to the Lubbock Convention and Visitors Bureau, 1301 Broadway, Ste. 200, Lubbock 79401; 800/ Books Look for Wines of Texas (Eakin Press, 4th ed., 2002) By Sarah Jane English and Wine Roads of Texas: An Essential Guide to Texas Wines and Wineries (Maverick Publishing Co., 2003) by Wes Marshall in libraries and bookstores. COMING TO TERMS WITH WINE BLEND A wine made from the juice of different grape varieties. (A proprietary blend is an exact blend specific to a particular winery.) COMPLEX Possessing many different flavors and aromas that in unison create a unique bouquet. DRY Not sweet. ESTATE GROWN Grapes grown on the winery's property or "estate." FINISH The final impression a wine leaves after being swallowed. RESERVE WINE A wine made from especially fine fruit. May also receive extra aging before its release. VARIETAL WINE Wine made primarily or solely from a single grape variety, such as Chardonnay, Merlot, or Chenin Blanc. |
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