(Texas Wildlife November 2009)
by
Henry Chappell
Okay, you’ve decided to run your dog through a trained retrieving program. (See “The Trained Retrieve – Part I” in the September 2009 issue.) You’ve committed to daily lessons for six to eight weeks with little or no interruption, and internalized the reality that, early in the program, your dog will resent both the “fetch” command and the training buck. You understand that once started, there’s no turning back. The program must be completed.
Don’t start just yet. Read this column and Part III, scheduled for the January 2010 issue. Make sure you understand every step. Study. Plan. Now is no time to get in a hurry. Furthermore, you do not want to start a trained retrieving program during hunting season. Wait until spring.
Consider your dog’s age and temperament. I would never run a dog through a trained retrieving program until he’s at least a year old, and then only if he’s a very tough nut. I ran my three German shorthairs through the program when they were around a year old but, like most members of their breed, they never took things personally. (Maggie, my current shorthair, thinks she has multiple nicknames, all profane.) You’d be well-advised to wait until your sensitive golden retriever or English setter is at least 18 months old.
In any case, the dog should obey basic commands, especially “whoa,” for pointing dogs, and “Sit-stay” for retrievers.
Another consideration: whether or not to use a training table. There are excellent reasons pro and con. Professional trainers and serious amateurs who work multiple dogs often use waist-high tables to position the dog at a comfortable height, thus avoiding a tired back. Also, as anyone who has ever placed a pooch on a veterinary table knows, dogs are easier to handle – less confident, more docile – with their feet off the ground.
On the other hand, the average hunter, who trains only a dog or two per decade, may choose to forgo the effort and expense of building a training table and simply start on the ground. Although he used to rely on a training table, James Collier, a pro trainer based in Decatur, Texas, nowadays keeps his trainees on the ground.
“That way, you don’t have to make that transition from table to ground,” he says. “Dogs are very place-oriented. Most will have a setback when you take them off the table.”
Table or no table, reserve a spot for trained retrieving. Since your dog will form negative associations in the early stages, choose a location away from his favorite haunts, including kennel and regular training area. Need I say that you shouldn’t force-train in your house? A corner of your garage or back yard should serve nicely. Keep in mind that your average suburban neighbor would be appalled by the harsher aspects of trained retrieving. There will be some yelping, especially in the early stages of compulsion.
We’ll start easy. Clip a lead to your dog’s collar and heel him to your trained retrieving area. If you’re using a table, a couple of short introductory sessions will be required. Bold, cooperative dogs will hop right on.
Whoa the dog on the training table or at heel if you’ll be training in the ground. Position yourself so that you can control your dog with your dominant hand and present the training buck with your other hand. If you’re training on the ground, you may need to kneel. You’ll have more patience and better concentration if your knees aren’t killing you. A small mat or patch of old carpet works wonders. Some trainers recommend a choke collar or spiked force collar at this point. I’ve found the everyday, flat, D-ring collar adequate, but then I’ve trained bird dogs, not 80-pound Chesapeake Bay retrievers.
Present the retrieving buck and say “fetch” in a firm but calm voice. Don’t yell. He may take it, merely sniff it, or take on the obstinate demeanor of a kid turning up her nose at spinach. Even if he takes the buck, he’ll likely want to treat it like a toy and roll it around in his mouth, chew on it, and drop it. If he refuses the buck, gently pry open his mouth and insert the buck behind his canines. You may have to arrange his lips so that they aren’t pinched between his teeth and the buck. All the while, calmly repeat, “fetch.” If he absolutely will not open his mouth, pinch his lips against his teeth. Be patient, though. You can always add a little force if necessary, but you can’t take it back once it’s been applied.
You want your dog to hold the buck firmly but gently. To keep him from dropping it, slip the four fingers of your dominant hand under his everyday collar and push your thumb up between the V-shaped bones of his lower jaw while simultaneously pressing the top of his muzzle with your other hand.
By now, even the merriest dog will be sullen. Don’t worry about it. You’ll work through it together. He may struggle. Be firm, but don’t get any rougher than absolutely necessary. When he complies, praise him lavishly while repeating “fetch.”
As soon as he holds the buck for a few seconds, say “give,” and take the buck. He’s best dog in the world. Make sure he knows it. Repeat once or twice and then call it a day. You and your dog have successfully completed a tough session.
Next day, don’t be surprised if your dog gets morose as soon as you start to lead him to your trained retrieving area. This second lesson may be as tough as the first. Most likely, at some point during the first week of training, you’ll have your fingers under his collar and your thumb pushing up against his lower jaw, and you’ll feel him swallow. That’s good. With most dogs, the gulp is the canine equivalent of a human sigh. He’s now resigned to his fate. You can expect a lot less struggle during the remainder of this phase of training.
Repeat, repeat, repeat. Keep lessons short – 10 to 15 minutes once or twice every day. End every session on a positive note. Praise even the smallest act of cooperation.
After a week or so, your dog will be holding the buck for several seconds on his own, although you may still have to pry open his mouth. He should always hold it until you issue the “give” command. Of course, there will be slip-ups and setbacks. Try to anticipate mistakes and correct them before they occur. If you see that he’s about to drop the buck, stop him by sliding your fingers under his collar and pushing up against his lower jaw with your thumb while sternly repeating “fetch.”
He’ll try to anticipate the “give” command. Keep him on his toes by tapping him gently under the chin while he’s holding the buck. If he starts to drop it, correct him. Step back several feet, then move toward him. Again, correct him if he anticipates “give.”
When he’s holding the buck reliably for 30 seconds or so, it’s time to move on to the next phase. Feel free to congratulate yourself. You and your buddy are well into advanced training, further than most hunting dogs and amateur trainers ever go.
Now he must learn to reach for the buck on command. Things are about to get much tougher, but you’re ready. In any case, there’s no turning back now.
Stay tuned for “The Trained Retrieve – Part III.”